When Michelin is more bad than good
Restaurants find there are pitfalls to getting into the guide
By Chan Ying Lam & Denis Lam
Some restaurants that have been selected for the Michelin Guide said the boost in reputation has also led to difficulties.
Yu Kai Hong, 40, the owner of Fat Boy, a snack shop in Tsim Sha Tsui that made it on the guide’s 2016 list of street foods, said his rent might increase.
The owner of Fat Boy.
“I believe the landlord will increase the rent of my shop outside my range, as the rent now is HK$80,000, which is 60 percent of all my profits per month,” Yu said. “If the rent keeps increasing, I’m afraid I cannot handle it.” As a result, Yu said he might have to increase his working hours to make a profit.
“ I am happy not it is Michelin, but because because it is a recognition from the world.
– Yu Kai Hong, owner of Fat Boy“
Fat Boy specializes in local, cheap street foods, such as marinated cuttlefish, chicken kidney and pork. A stick of cuttlefish at Fat Boy costs only 7 dollars. Yu said that instead of increasing the price to account for the rent, he might have to work 14 hours a day.
Local food with sweet sauce by Fat Boy. (Photos: Chan Yan Lam and Denis Lam)
“There are many good restaurant in Tsim Sha Tsui, and my advantage is cheap and quality food,” Yu said. “If the cost of the food here is expensive , I may lost my customers.” Yu said the Michelin listing has not resulted in more customers. To him, the guide has brought nothing but downsides, but he is still pleased about the recognition. “I am happy not because it is Michelin, but because it is a recognition from the world,” Yu said. “I think every cook may have this dream.” Fanny Yip, the shopkeeper of Mammy Pancake, another Michelin street-food pick in Tsim Sha Tsui, said the listing is a mixed blessing.
She said the number of customers at the seller of Hong Kong-style egg puffs has grown 20 to 30 percent since the Michelin announced the list in November. But that also means the wait time is longer, about five minutes.
Freshly baked egg puffs by Mammy Pancake.
“We make the egg puffs to order, and promise the best quality,” she said. “We refuse to sacrifice taste and texture for speed, so we can only sacrifice customers’ time.”
The Michelin listing also means that customer set a higher bar, Yip said, adding that customers were more willing to point out any inconsistencies in flavor or texture.
Chris Wong, the owner of Three Potatoes in Mong Kong, said the Michelin street-food listing has led to more customers, but the effect did not last.
Baked potatoes by Three Potatoes.
Sales at the shop, which sells baked potatoes and other snacks, increased in the first two months after Michelin released its list, Wong said.
“But Hongkongers are forgetful,”he said,“and they would rather try different kinds of snacks.”
“ The Michelin street food listing has led to more customers, but the effect did not last. “
– Chris Wong, owner of Three Potatos
